Return to Education main Page

    The ferret is an animal cloaked in mystery, although it has been kept in captivity for centuries.  Like many other animals, ferrets have suffered at the hands of ignorant owners.  A ferret is no more suited to all people than is a dog, cat, bird, hamster, etc..  Like owning any other animal, please due research before committing to the responsibility of owning a ferret or any other pet for that matter.

If you bring a ferret into your life, you must take full responsibility to care for that animal for the entirety of its natural life span.

Ferret care is a matter of learning basic maintenance and care of the ferret, as well as the particular danger signs to watch for, and some simple emergency procedures you should know.  Read reliable books on ferret care both before you get a ferret and periodically during the life of the pet to “brush up”.  Ferrets can live anywhere from 7 to 11 years on an average; (since I have owned ferrets our oldest ferret “Albi” was 14 years old when she past on). 

You should not take any ferret into your care unless you are prepared to honor the animal’s trust by being a responsible caregiver for many years.  This includes knowing where to turn should you find that you are no longer able to care for the pet.  ABANDONMENT of a FERRET or ANY ANIMAL that has come into your trust and care is unnecessary, cruel, and illegal.

Think about joining ferret originations; In Massachusetts, there are two well know originations that I would highly recommend:  South Shore Ferret Care:        781-249-4628  web site to follow!

MaFF (Massachusetts Ferret Friends): http://www.maferrets.org    978-957-9886

Handling:

            To have a hand able ferret, much attention and care must be given to prevent any biting mishaps.  To pick the ferret up grasp it around the forelegs, make sure to support the lower portion of the ferret’s body with your other hand.  Ferrets love to play, if given the chance; a ferret will crawl up on your shoulder or even onto your head!

Grooming:

            Ferrets are extremely clean animals, and do not require extensive grooming.  Baths only need to be given on an occasional basis.  Ferrets usually shed their hair twice a year; clipping your ferret’s fur is unnecessary.  Using a stiff brush is helpful in removing the shedding hair, some ferrets enjoy being brushed, while others detest it.

Cleaning of the ears may be done periodically with a Q-tip and hydrogen peroxide do NOT dig deep into the canal.  Trimming of ferret’s nails should be done as needed.  As with other animals, be careful no to cut too closely to the kwik (the vein in the nail) to avoid bleeding.

Health Care:

            It is important to know the history of your ferret.  You must have your pet ferret examined by a veterinarian and given the proper inoculations.  Documentation of up-to-date canine distemper and rabies vaccinations are important.  These vaccinations, which are required by law in Massachusetts, should be given to a ferret at 12 weeks of age at the earliest and updated yearly.  In Massachusetts it is also the law to spay and neuter your pet ferret.  Another recommended procedure for the pet ferret is anal glad removal.  (The anal glands cause a musty smell of ferrets which is common in the Mustelidae family from which the ferret descends – this includes other animals such as skunks, weasels, and fishers.)  Check your ferrets feet frequently!  It is common for them to get foot rot – their feet are very sensitive to the cold and dampness.

Housing:

            A ferret’s house should be sturdily constructed.  It should be sat least two feet high, but it should be no less than 18 inches wide and four feet long.  Most ferret hutches can be purchased at a local pet store.  If you are housing your ferret in a small room, make sure you “ferret proof” it.  If you use a multi level ferret cage, make sure each level has food and water dishes attached to the cage.  If you leave dishes at the bottom of the cages, ferrets, tend to tip the dishes over.  Make sure you put a litter box in the bottom of the cage, easy enough for you to clean, but harder for the ferrets to overturn.

Play Time:

            Ferrets also need to have time out of their cages to stretch their little legs.  Make sure you have toys for them to play with, cat toys work well too.  Ferrets need time to play and interact with people.  A minimum of 4 hours a day though it should be much more.  We cannot stress enough that all interactions among different animal species and between any animal and a child must be supervised carefully and constantly. Dogs, pushed to their limit by a playful ferret or a teasing child will react, sometimes with tragic consequences.  Cats often run away, but can inflict painful scratches.  Ferrets love to jump and play hide and seek in plastic tubes.  Do not give ferrets rubber toys, they tend to bite pieces off that may be ingested, which can cause intestinal blockage, sometimes resulting in death.   Always make sure you clean the ferrets bedding at least once a week. Ferrets love to burrow, so put more than one towel in their cage.  Pet stores sell a variety of hammocks, sacks for ferrets, or be creative and make your own. 

Food:

            There is commercial ferret food available on the market.  High quality, dry kibbled cat food works well too.  Avoid junk food and whole, unmilled grains.  Always provide a plentiful, clean supply of water for your ferret.

Parasites:

            Ferrets can pick up the external parasites which effect dogs, cats and rodents.  Ticks, mites and lice suck the blood of their host.  If other pets in the house hold are being treated for parasites, then so should your ferret, make sure you treat their bedding also.

Abscesses:

            Any swelling should be treated with concern.  A swelling may be only a localized reaction to an irritation, but it might just as well be a tumor.  A sudden, reddish swelling is likely to be the result of and external cause, such as a bite or sting.  Treat with a mild antiseptic.  Once a swelling has burst, swab it daily. 

 Mouth abscesses are quite common in ferrets.  Another area prone to abscess is the anus. 

Diarrhea:

Normal ferret feces are elongated, moist and firm.  A stressed ferret will also have loose feces.  Sometimes changing a foods diet; going from dry cat food, to ferret food, vise versa; also changing brands will result in diarrhea.

If the feces remain loose, foul-smelling or contain blood, a more serious condition maybe indicated. Diarrhea can be a symptom of other ailments. If you keep a number of ferrets, it is wise to have a separate accommodation for situations such as this.  Collect a sample of the feces in a suitable container. Take the sample and the ferret to your vet.

Flu and Chills:

A ferret can catch a cold from you or your other pets. Symptoms resemble those seen in humans-runny eyes and nose, high temperature, loss of appetite and drowsiness. Keep the ferret warm and away from stressful situations. Colds usually clear up quickly.

Heatstroke: 

A ferret can become overheated if it cannot retreat from the sunlight at its own convenience. Therefore, a shaded area must be available to your pet. Never leave any animal in a closed car on a hot day.  A ferret suffering from heatstroke pants and becomes lethargic. It needs immediate attention. Quickly take it to a cool spot.  The ferret can be dipped in cool water. (The water must not be cold; too rapid a change in temperature may result in shock.) Submerge the body, but be sure to hold the ferret's head above the water line. The head can be stroked with the cool water.  Once the ferret appears to be reviving, towel it down. Place the animal in a cool, dry spot. The area must be free from drafts to avoid a chill.

Shock:

The symptoms of shock much resemble heatstroke. Shock can be induced by loud, sudden noise. A chase by a predator or any similar, sudden movement may also induce shock. Be aware that the shock may not be instant- there may be a delay from the time of the incident to the onset of shock.  Place an animal suffering from shock in a warm, quiet spot. Speak softly and gently stroke the ferret. Recovery is normally rapid after some attention and a favored tidbit.

Wounds:

Wounds may be a daily occurrence for active, inquisitive ferrets. All wounds should be carefully swabbed to establish their extent. Minor abrasions need little attention beyond cleansing with a mild antiseptic. More serious cuts must be cleaned. A dressing must be placed on the wound and the ferret taken to a vet.

Quarantine:

A period of quarantine is mandatory before introducing any new ferret to an establisher stock. Failure to do so is taking an unnecessary risk, regardless of how good the source of supply. A minimum of ten days of isolation must be allowed to permit any incubating illness to show itself.

 Ferrets tend to get along well with children, and other animals. Like everything else:

NEVER leave a child or baby alone with ANY animal, caged or not.  Likewise, never leave ferrets alone with birds, rodents, reptiles, or other “prey” species. Dogs, or cats may tend to bite, or scratch at the ferret to defend themselves.  Do not leave your ferret unsupervised.

Information has been gathered by the creator and various informational resources, MaFF, Gimmeeshelter, “The Ferret Owner’s Manual” by Dick Bossart, Adelle Porch (Your first ferret), and Ferret Magazines.  Under no circumstance stances, am I trying to take away information from any of the authors.  If you were not mentioned, I apologize in advance, and please do not take it personal.  I just want to help educate, the readers, so the pet doesn’t become an unwanted pet.  I know how taxing unwanted animals are to shelters, due to lack of space, and always trying to make room for new animals.  Without extensive research from all of you this could not be possible.  Thank you all!  

Return to Education main Page